How a ‘lazy winemaker’ is making an ambitious wine

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The clusters of cabernet franc grapes on the vine at Stratus Vineyards in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ont., look ripe and ready for harvest – to the untrained eye, at least. But when Jean-Laurent (J-L) Groux invites guests to taste the berries, the veteran winemaker explains: “You’ll see they’re not ready. … They taste green. That’s what we are going to work on, not only to get rid of the green, but get more aroma, more flavours …”

The French born and trained winemaker, who has been making wine in Niagara since 1988, estimates it will likely be six weeks before these grapes are picked to be made into wine.

“We always pick late,” Groux says. “We are known for that because I am a lazy winemaker. I want nature to do the job for me.”

Many techniques used by winemakers help to compensate for things that went wrong in the vineyard. Depending on the wine region, they can add acidity or sugar to unfermented grape juice to increase its acidity or alcohol content after fermentation. Tannin, colour and many other attributes can be adjusted to be more balanced and appealing for consumers. Groux prefers to get it right (perhaps, better to say ripe?) in the vineyard.

On this Saturday in late September, Stratus’s winemaking team is pressing some Gamay grapes to make rosé. The sauvignon blanc and chardonnay vines have been picked clean, but many other varieties continue to hang. The Gamay earmarked to make red wine will be harvested by hand – everything on the estate is picked by hand for top quality – in mid-October. There’s no rush for the rest. Red wine varieties at Stratus have been harvested in December after neighbouring wineries have picked grapes to produce icewine.

“Typically, we pick in November,” says Groux, who oversees the 56-acre estate vineyard, which is planted with 16 different grape varieties organized into 44 different plots, including late ripening red wine varieties such as cabernet sauvignon, tannat and petit verdot. By that time in the season, cold temperatures often cause the leaves to fall off the plants, leaving grape bunches hanging on naked vines.

The veteran winemaker is used to questions from incredulous winemakers and wine lovers: What are you waiting for?

Groux’s team continues to sample grapes from different clusters and places around the vineyard block to check on their evolution. “Week after week, we are seeing improvements. The grapes are exposed to the sun. They keep ripening.”

The vineyard isn’t the only place that Stratus takes a different approach to winemaking. The winery, which was designated as the world’s first LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certified winery in 2005, was set up to make two wines each year, Stratus Red and Stratus White, designed to be the best possible wines from each vintage, produced by blending the different grapes grown on the property. Each grape variety, each barrel or batch is assessed for inclusion.

The template is to produce wines with powerful aromatics, a round mouth feel, complexity, significant length and the capability of aging at least seven to 10 years. (Other wines are created by wines that don’t fit either blend.) The first vintage produced was in 2000, but even with that extensive track record, there aren’t any preconceptions going into the blending sessions.

The current release, Stratus Red 2018, resulted in a surprising blend, led by petit verdot (38 per cent), a surprisingly high number for a variety typically used in tiny amounts by top château in Bordeaux. The rest is filled out by smaller additions of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, tannat and cabernet franc.

Stratus Red is one of this week’s recommended selections alongside another enjoyable single vineyard Canadian red wine from Mayhem’s estate in Osoyoos, B.C. There is also a complex Chianti Classico Riserva and two refreshing white wines with appetizing character.

Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards The Mischief Pinot Blanc 2021 (Canada), $20.50

Produced from the Fitzpatrick family’s Greata Ranch property in Peachland, B.C., this refreshing and inviting white wine is marked by pear, apple and citrus fruit flavours and a slightly grassy and grapefruit pith accent. Time spent aging in older oak barrels helps to build texture and weight, making this an agreeable wine to enjoy on its own or with a meal. Drink now to 2024. Available direct, fitzwine.com.

Lamole di Lamole Riserva Chianti Classico 2017 (Italy), $29.95

Located in the hills of Chianti Classico, Lamole di Lamole has vineyards planted at some of the highest elevations in the region. This refreshing and complex Riserva offers attractive cherry and plum flavours with earthy, floral and spice notes. Dry and nicely balanced, this is a serious and vital red wine. Drink now to 2028. Available in Ontario at the above price (part of the Oct. 8 Vintages release), $35.99 in British Columbia.

Mare di Sirena Pinot Grigio 2021 (Italy), $8.95

Mare di Sirena is a label created by Toronto wine agent Alex Patinos, who sought out an Italian winery to produce a value priced pinot grigio that met his style and quality parameters. The result is this bright and fruity white with good balance and a lingering finish. Now in its second vintage, it’s a new listing at liquor stores in British Columbia. Drink now. Available in Ontario at the above price, $14.99 in British Columbia.

Mayhem Anarchy Reserve Merlot 2020 (Canada), $39.23

This single vineyard red wine comes from a site on Anarchist Mountain in Osoyoos in the southern Okanagan. Mostly merlot with a small percentage of cabernet franc, this is a ripe and full-bodied expression with concentrated dark fruit that gains complexity from herbal, floral and cocoa notes. Drink now to 2032. Available direct, mayhemwines.com.

Stratus Red 2018 (Canada), $49

The latest release of Stratus is a compelling and expressive red wine with good maturity (grapes were harvested between Nov. 1 to 11) and vitality. There’s a lovely core of ripe fruit with freshness, focus and smooth tannins. Drink now to 2032. Available direct, stratuswines.com, various prices in Alberta.

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