Always enjoyable, Chablis is an ideal white wine when it’s sweltering outside. The fresh and crisp regional style of its chardonnay can be thirst-quenching, precise, substantial, polished or explosive, depending on its age and pedigree.
While not being the bargain it once was, Chablis continues to offer value for money. New oak barrels are used sparingly in this part of northern France, although the number of bottles with obvious barrel-derived flavours seems to grow each year. Richer and riper wines are also increasingly commonplace as temperatures increase, but the freshness that defines Chablis character is ever present. (Riper grapes have increased the average quality across the board.)
Two classic examples are featured in this week’s recommendations, offered up as bottles that are the perfect tonic to beat the summer heat. Domaine Laroche Saint Martin Chablis has been a benchmark for the region for decades, while Domaine Beaufumé is a generations-old family operation that moved from grape-growing to winemaking in 2014.
Other thirst-quenching whites and rosés are included here for late summer enjoyment. Premium examples of pinot blanc, still and sparkling rosé, and two bold barrel-fermented chardonnays are singled out as stylish ways to cool off.
Finally, for anyone whose default setting is red wine, three robust wines are enticingly ripe and rewarding. Whether your taste runs toward power and concentration or elegance and complexity, there’s something to enjoy with summer’s haze.
Blue Mountain Estate Cuvee Pinot Blanc 2023 (Canada), $25.90
Stuart Bish/Supplied
Rating: 92
This stylish white wine was produced with pinot blanc grapes from vines planted in the mid-1980s. A mix of fermentation vessels (500-litre and 4,500-litre oak barrels and stainless-steel tanks) contributes to the fresh and fruity character. Expect a mix of lemon, peach and pear fruit flavours with spice and floral notes contributing complexity to a nicely textured and refreshing wine. Drink now to 2027. Available direct, bluemountainwinery.com.
Domaine Beaufumé Chablis 2022 (France), $45.95
Supplied
Rating: 91
This surprising Chablis conveys the mouthwatering and stony character that chardonnays from this region are famous for, but with a creamy note and riper fruit (juicy peach as well as zesty citrus) flavours. As a result, it’s more approachable than austere; a wine you could enjoy on its own or with a meal. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario, $47.99 in British Columbia ($42.99 until Aug. 31).
Domaine Laroche Saint Martin Chablis 2022 (France), $33.30
Supplied
Rating: 88
Named in honour of the patron saint of Chablis, Saint Martin is a blend of chardonnay grapes from Domaine Laroche’s 60 hectares of vineyards. The style is fresh and smooth, with satisfying green apple and pear fruit flavours that gain interest from some chalky and cream notes. The lingering finish suggests lemon and salty notes that underscores its Chablis essence. Drink now to 2027. Vegan friendly. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $30.75 in Quebec (2023 vintage), $40.20 in Nova Scotia.
Fort Berens White Gold Reserve 2022 (Canada), $34.99
Supplied
Rating: 92
White Gold Reserve is Fort Berens’s top chardonnay. Made with grapes grown at the winery’s Dry Creek Vineyards in Lillooet, B.C., this rich and refreshing barrel-fermented white wine presents an appealing mix of melon, citrus and cream flavours. It’s a full-bodied, balanced and flavourful expression of chardonnay that is truly pleasurable. Drink now to 2026. Available direct, fortberens.ca.
Gérard Bertrand Perles de Grenache Rosé 2023 (France), $18.95
Supplied
Rating: 89
Inventive winemaker Gérard Bertrand produces an expansive portfolio from vineyards throughout the south of France, including several popular rosés such as Gris Blanc and Côte de Roses Rosé. The Perles de Grenache Rosé is made exclusively from the grenache grape, which delivers a pale-pink wine with elegant balance and a crisp, refreshing finish. Drink now. Available in Ontario.
Gran Feudo Reserva 2017 (Spain), $19.95
Supplied
Rating: 88
This simple, oaky and well-made red from Navarra is a blend of tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon and merlot that was aged in a mix of American and French oak barrels for 18 months. It’s a dry red made in a glossy and polished international style, with an appealingly ripe character. Easy to appreciate. Drink now to 2026. Available in Ontario.
Glenelly Glass Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (South Africa), $18.95
Supplied
Rating: 89
The Glenelly wine estate in Stellenbosch was founded in 2003 by May-Eliane de Lencquesaing, former owner of Bordeaux’s Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. This entry-level cabernet sauvignon is made in a leaner, soft style that offers more elegance than power. The mix of blackcurrant, plum and cassis flavours with herbal and savoury notes makes for a complex and developing red wine. Drink now to 2027. Available in Ontario.
Taittinger Prestige Rosé Champagne (France), $95.90
Supplied
Rating: 91
Taittinger’s rosé is a deep-pink colour owing to the use of 15-per-cent red wine in the blend of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier. The fruity character, which features ripe cherry and berry flavours with citrussy acidity to balance, is easy to appreciate. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $92.50 in Quebec.
Tinhorn Creek Merlot 2021 (Canada), $26.99
Supplied
Rating: 88
This ripe and round red wine offers layers of fruit and savoury flavours as part of its complex, full-bodied character. The style is smooth and nicely balanced, with significant oak presence after 14 months in a mix of American and French oak barrels. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in British Columbia ($24.99 until Aug. 31), $25 direct, tinhorn.com, various prices in Alberta, $29.99 in Manitoba ($26.99 until Aug. 31).
Zephyr Marlborough Chardonnay 2021 (New Zealand), $23.95
Supplied
Rating: 90
Winemaker Ben Glover, who has made wine at Wither Hills and Mud House, is now overseeing his family operation in Marlborough, Zephyr. This shows nicely concentrated ripe lemon flavours with oak spice and struck-match, flinty notes that add complexity. A zesty and creamy character makes for a rich and flavourful chardonnay with a long, lingering finish. Drink now to 2027. Available in Ontario.