Since 2001, Diageo has dipped into its extensive portfolio of 30 distilleries and an estimated 10 million casks of maturing whiskey in Scotland, to produce its Special Releases collection. The annual marketing exercise is aimed at whiskey lovers and collectors around the world, offering exclusive malt whiskies that offer a different expression from popular distilleries, such as Lagavulin, Oban and Talisker.
Continued consumer interest in the niche malt whisky category now has Diageo competing against itself, having launched its Prima & Ultima range of ultra-rare whiskies in 2020. Prima signifies a first for the label or distillery, while ultima collects the last available stock in Diageo’s inventory. As a result, the Special Releases of late have lost some of their patina.
Retail prices continue to climb, leaving critics to wonder why a company would offer younger whiskies at a higher price than older expressions?
There are eight selections in Diageo’s 2023 offering of natural cask strength whiskies presented under the overarching theme, Spirited Xchange, with custom labels designed for each. Having tasted through the range ahead of World Whisky Day on May 18, these are the four that impressed.
Glenkinchie 27 Year Old (Scotland), $497.80
The oldest whisky in the 2023 collection stands out for its overall quality and enjoyment factor. This appealingly aromatic malt was aged in a mix of American and European casks, which contributes to its complex mix of floral, fruit (sweet mango and peach) and oak-derived (nutty and vanilla) notes. The finish is long and elegant. Bottled at 58.3 per cent abv. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $499.99 in Manitoba, $499.75 in Quebec, $500.19 in New Brunswick.
Roseisle 12 Year Old (Scotland), $177.75
This debut single malt release from this Speyside single malt distillery, which was built by Diageo in 2009, is the most interesting and enjoyable of the 2023 selection. Its exclusivity appeals to the head, while the pretty perfume and rich viscous character inspires a passionate response. Cinnamon spice combine with cereal and nutty aromas, which replay on the palate with peach, citrus and grassy notes. Bottled at 56.5 per cent abv. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $179.99 in Manitoba and New Brunswick, $180.75 in Quebec, $179.98 in Nova Scotia.
Talisker Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Scotland), $177.65
There’s an appealing smoky and salty character to this nicely layered release from Talisker. The upfront peaty notes and subdued port cask character suggest a more youthful spirit than the conventional Talisker 10 ($100 to $150 range across the country), but the range of fruit and spice notes make for an pleasurable drink. Bottled at 59.7 per cent abv. Available at the above price in Ontario, $189.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $179.99 in Manitoba, $180.75 in Quebec, $180.19 in New Brunswick, $179.98 in Nova Scotia.
The Singleton of Glendullan 14 Year Old (Scotland), $177.95
The choice of chardonnay barrels from Burgundy contributes to the creamy texture of this satisfying malt whisky. Expect orchard and citrus fruit flavours with nutty and peppery spice that counter the butterscotch and vanilla sweetness. 55 per cent abv. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $179.99 in Manitoba, $180.19 in New Brunswick, $179.98 in Nova Scotia.