The structure and intensity of flavours, often suggestive of cherry and berries with a gentle tug of tannins on the finish, makes lambrusco a versatile wine to serve with a meal.Nicola Muraro/Getty Images/iStockphoto
While the reputation of lambruscos from Italy continues to be besmirched and ridiculed by some wine lovers, a growing number of sommeliers across Canada have become enamoured with these bright, dry yet fruity sparkling wines.
Sparkling reds continue to be a novelty in the world of wine. Australia has its sparkling shirazes, which can be delightfully effervescent, with a core of complex berry, floral, pepper and oak flavours. The style is embraced at home but doesn’t travel as far and wide as other wines made Down Under. Perhaps it’s the notion of bubbles in a red wine?
Lambrusco producers from Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia are still fighting a poor reputation created by the flood of sweet and fizzy wines available in North America in the 1970s and 1980s. The bottles recommended by sommeliers and other experts are dark red in colour, dry and complex, lower in alcohol than most wines (11 per cent) and often extremely affordable.
The structure and intensity of flavours, often suggestive of cherry and berries with a gentle tug of tannins on the finish, makes lambrusco a versatile wine to serve with a meal. It’s a winning match for roast pork or white meat dishes as well as all kinds of salumi and cheeses. A terrific example made by Lini is currently available at wine shops in Alberta, British Columbia and Ontario, but sightings on shelves are relatively rare. It is increasingly popping up on restaurant wine lists as savvy sommeliers celebrate this overlooked gem.
Nine wines for Fall
Carpineto Riserva Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2017 (Italy), $32.95
SCORE: 93 PRICE: $32.95
This fragrant and satisfying red wine is a blend of sangiovese with canaiolo and other regional varieties. The aroma and flavour suggest a complex mix of ripe fruit, herbal and earthy notes, with a tangy acidity and fine-grained tannins that contribute to the depth and structure. This is enjoyable now but has the components to mature gracefully. Drink now-2032. Available in Ontario at the above price, $33.75 in Quebec,
Cellier des Dauphins Réserve 2019 (France), $16.95
SCORE: 87 PRICE: $16.95
One of the Rhône’s largest winemaking co-operatives, Cellier des Dauphins enjoys good distribution in many parts of the country. An easy-to-appreciate blend of grenache and syrah, this bistro red offers appealing ripe fruit with a dry, spicy finish that will cleanse your palate between bites. Drink now. Available in Ontario at the above price, $28.49 in Saskatchewan, $19.99 in Manitoba.
Clos de los Siete 2018 (Argentina), $25.95
SCORE: 90 PRICE: $25.95
Since its first vintage in 2002, Clos de los Siete has helped to draw attention to the Uco Valley. A red blend that’s masterminded by famed Bordeaux consultant Michel Rolland, this is a ripe and layered red with a core of plush dark fruit. The mix of malbec, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc and petit verdot makes for an well-knit and smooth red wine that’s easy to appreciate. Drink now to 2028. Available in Ontario at the above price, $29.99 in British Columbia ($25.49 until Oct. 29), various prices in Alberta, $27.99 in Manitoba, $25.80 in Quebec, $35.86 in Newfoundland.
Dough Chardonnay 2019 (United States), $26.95
SCORE: 87 PRICE: $26.95
Dough is a California brand that supports the James Beard Foundation, a non-profit organization focused on America’s food culture, by donating funds toward restaurant recovery, equality in the kitchen and food sustainability. Not surprisingly, this dry chardonnay’s balanced and refreshing nature make it a food-friendly expression. There’s an appealing mix of fruit flavours, ranging from citrus to peach to tropical notes, with creamy and toasty notes that add depth and complexity. Drink now to 2024. Available in Ontario.
Gérard Bertrand Héritage 560 Tautavel 2020 (France), $19.95
SCORE: 90 PRICE: $19.95
Located between the foothills of the Pyrenees mountains and the Mediterranean, Tautavel is an ancient village in Roussillon where some of the oldest human remains have been unearthed. It’s also a source of compelling red wines made from the region’s well established grenache, syrah and carignan vines. The hot climate makes for ripe, concentrated, and complex styles that are approachable now and have the stuffing to age. Drink now to 2026. Available in Ontario at the above price, $29.99 in Saskatchewan, $21.42 in Manitoba, $18.25 in Quebec.
La Crema Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2019 (United States), $40.95
SCORE: 91 PRICE: $40.95
La Crema is well known for its chardonnays (and pinot noirs) made in California’s Sonoma Coast appellation. From time to time, we see other labels from the portfolio, like this concentrated and inviting chardonnay from the Russian River Valley. Made in a medium-bodied and layered style, this offers attractive apple and citrus fruit with cream, toast and spicy accents. It has the generous nature you’d expect from California without losing focus or freshness on the palate. Drink now to 2025. Available in Ontario at the above price, various prices in Alberta, $45.99 in New Brunswick.
Labrusca Lini 910 Reggiano Lambrusco Rosso Secco (Italy), $19.95
SCORE: 88 PRICE: $19.95
Lini has been making this expressive and enjoyable wine since 1910. Ripe cherry, floral and savoury notes make for a refreshing sparkling wine that is truly impressive. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $22.99 in British Columbia ($20.69 until Oct. 29), various prices in Alberta.
Mullineux Great Heart Chenin Blanc 2021 (South Africa), $22.95
SCORE: 90 PRICE: $22.95
Great Heart is a brand collectively owned by the staff at Mullineux winery who receive a portion of the sales. One of four wines in the portfolio, this chenin blanc is made from older vineyards in the Swartland. The style is fresh and focused, with appealing texture, weight and a lingering finish. It’s appetizing now, but I suspect it will round out and show more honeyed complexity with more time in bottle. Drink now to 2028. Available in Ontario.
San Pedro 1865 Selected Vineyards Carmenere 2020 (Chile), $19.95
SCORE: 89 PRICE: $19.95
This carmenere from the Maule region is ripe and complex, with distinctive toast, herbal, and dark fruit notes. The flavours are concentrated, and the texture is rich and round, making for a robust wine that is balanced by a refreshing finish. Drink now to 2028. Available in Ontario at the above price, $25.99 in British Columbia, $21.99 in Manitoba.
Plan your weekend with our Good Taste newsletter, offering wine advice and reviews, recipes, restaurant news and more. Sign up today.
Christopher Waters