Taking a moment to swirl and nose a sample helps to give a good indication of its quality and character.miodrag ignjatovic/iStockPhoto / Getty Images
The dustiest bottles in my home aren’t the age-worthy red wines purchased to honour a family member’s birth year or even any of the oddball liqueurs collected on my travels, they are my colognes. When I am tasting samples, attending trade functions, or simply enjoying wine with dinner, I don’t want the heady grapefruit and sage notes of Tom Ford Grey Vetiver competing with the fragrance of whatever is in my glass.
During summer and festive holidays, work obligations fade away, but that’s the time to enjoy good wine so that bottle of Tom Ford continues to keep company with other fragranced friends in a cool bathroom cupboard.
In my estimation, the aroma of a wine or spirit is a big part of its allure. Taking a moment to swirl and nose a sample helps to give a good indication of its quality and character. Sometimes there is next to no aroma (hey there, inexpensive pinot grigio); other times, you can smell it before your nose reaches the glass.
Some styles of wine are particularly pungent or perfumed as a result of the grape varieties used in production. Gewurztraminer, viognier, torrontes, malvasia and moschofilero are known to produce white wine with intense aromas. Heavily peated styles of whisky from Scotland likewise pack an aromatic payload of smoke and seaweed. In such instances, they risk being so over-the-top that they become an acquired taste like Thrills gum or the films of David Lynch.
There will be other columns to dig into the weird and wonderfully aromatic world of wine and spirits. For now, as holiday gatherings approach, here is a selection of seriously enjoyable red and white wines that offer captivating aromas as well as compelling flavours to please a crowd.
Bertinga Sassi Chiusi 2017 (Italy), $28.95
Located in Gaiole in the southeastern part of the Chianti Classico region, Bertinga produces a range of regional red wines, including this Super Tuscan blend of sangiovese and merlot. Acclaimed St. Émilion vintner Stéphane Derenoncourt is consulting winemaker, in part for his expertise with the merlot grape. Considered the second wine of the property, Sassi Chiusi is a blend of grapes from three vineyards. This reveals characteristic bright cherry and berry fruit with spice and herbal notes. Nicely balanced and structured, this is drinking well now, with the potential to develop. Drink now to 2030. Available in Ontario.
Château la Nerthe Les Cassagnes de la Nerthe Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2022 (France), $26.95
A white wine with an alluring perfume, suggesting white pepper, herbal and floral notes alongside peach and preserved lemon, this blend of roussanne, marsanne, grenache blanc and viognier makes a terrific first impression. The flavour carries on in a convincing way, with a rich and vibrant character. This has the weight of a ripe chardonnay with more aromatic intensity. A great wine to enjoy on its own, this might be too flavourful to serve with turkey and all the trimmings, but I’m tempted to try. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta.
Fontanafredda Barolo 2019 (Italy), $36.95
Fontanafredda’s classic label Barolo is a nice introduction to the complex fruity aroma of red wines made with the nebbiolo grape although more expensive versions deliver more intensity and concentration. Look for sweet berry fruit, leather and savoury aromas that add to the charm and appeal. On the palate, the grape’s characteristic powerful tannins and substantial acidity reveal themselves as part of the full-bodied character. Best enjoyed with a meal, such as shanks, meat stews, or hard cheeses. Drink now to 2041. Available at the above price in Ontario, $42.99 in British Columbia ($37.99 until Dec. 30), various prices in Alberta, $41.99 in Manitoba, $33.75 in Quebec, $48.99 in New Brunswick, $41.99 in Nova Scotia, $44.98 in Newfoundland.
Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (New Zealand), $26.95
An enduring favourite from New Zealand, Greywacke consistently delivers an elegant and focused model of sauvignon blanc. The 2022 is pleasant and complex in nature, suggesting lively lemon and clementine fruit with riper peach and tropical fruit notes. There’s some weight to the texture which makes this juicy and balanced white wine really stand out. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, $37.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $29.99 in Manitoba.
Staete Landt Annabel Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (New Zealand), $25.95
This a richer take on Marlborough sauvignon blanc made with grapes from different vineyard locations that are fermented separately with different yeast strains and at different temperatures to ensure a complex and compelling character. The satisfyingly fresh style offers a mix of peach, passionfruit and nectarine fruit with honey and herbal flavours. This is enjoyable on its own or with a meal. Drink now to 2027. Available in Ontario.
Tawse Dry White Vermouth (Canada), $23.15
Tawse’s clever variation on vermouth takes organically grown riesling from the Limestone Ridge vineyard and infuses it with 14 botanicals before adding neutral grape spirit to bring the alcohol up to 18.5 per cent. The mix of lime zest and tangerine fruit with spicy, honey and floral flavours is very pleasant, although this doesn’t taste like a “dry” vermouth. Best enjoyed as an aperitif served over ice or pour 1.5 to two ounces in a high ball glass and top with club soda. Drink now. Available in Ontario at the above price, $22.95 direct from tawsewinery.ca
Torbreck Woodcutter’s Shiraz 2021 (Australia), $29.95
The current release of Woodcutter’s Shiraz is a ripe and intense red wine befitting the Torbreck name. The complex aromas suggest a heady mix of dark fruit, cedary smoke and spice notes, with a nicely structured and balanced attack on the palate. The fruit flavours are fresh and juicy with corresponding smoky and spicy notes and bright acidity to balance. A red wine with power and poise, this is sure to age gracefully. Drink now to 2033. Available at the above price in Ontario, $39.99 in British Columbia ($34.99 until Dec. 30), various prices in Alberta, $42 in Nova Scotia (Bishop’s Cellar).
Travaglini Gattinara 2019 (Italy), $37.95
The family-owned Travaglini produces seven different wines from the nebbiolo grape each vintage, including this well-known Gattinara in the distinctively curved bottle. The aroma is equally distinguishing, offering a fragrant mix of plum and berry, with new leather, licorice and spice notes. The flavour follows suit, with cherry, berry and spice as part of a structured red wine with fine tannins. Best enjoyed with a meal. Try with roasts, braised meat entrees or mushroom dishes. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $41.96 in Manitoba, $37 in Quebec.
Christopher Waters