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September can create a push and pull between the desire to eke out the last ounces of summer fun or get busy living your best possible Pumpkin Spice life. Are you forgoing socks for as long as possible or reaching for flannel shirts or other cozy sweaters?
From a wine drinker’s perspective, there’s the option to choose between refreshment and richness. I have been considering new releases that straddle this momentary duality. As a result, there’s a wide range of styles represented in this week’s recommendations. Red, white and orange (the colour designation assigned to skin-fermented white wines) as well as a memorable de-alcoholized sparkling wine are featured.
Let’s start with a summery state of mind and point toward different shades of refreshment in the form of a flavourful chardonnay from Mendoza, a fruity pinot noir from Germany, and an adventurous amber-coloured wine from a family operation in the Okanagan.
From an autumnal viewpoint, there are rewarding reds in the form of a concentrated barbera from Piedmont, a complex grenache-based blend from the southern Rhône and a nicely structured cabernet from Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley.
A final option comes from the Zuccardi family, which is finding new ways to market its organic wines from Argentina. The family that made waves with the launch of the affordable Fuzion Shiraz-Malbec in 2009 has released a pleasurable cabernet sauvignon made from organically grown grapes in its vineyards in Mendoza. The Juli Organic Cabernet Sauvignon is a new release to watch.
Even if you’re sporting sandals with woollen socks, there’s bound to be wines of interest in this mix.
Ascheri Barbera 2021 (Italy), $16.95
For its 2021 vintage, Ascheri delivers a ripe and flavourful expression of barbera from Langhe in Piedmont. Despite its 14.5 per cent alcohol, this is a vibrant and balanced red with plenty of ripe cherry fruit mixed with floral and herbal notes. The dry finish adds focus and makes an enjoyable wine to bring to the dinner table or, slightly chilled, on its own. Drink now to 2028. Available in Ontario.
Edenvale Expedition Series Sparkling Cuvée De-Alcoholized Wine (Spain), $27.95
Edenvale is a leading producer of non-alcoholic wines making a range of styles from grapes grown in its native Australia as well as a lineup produced in Spain. This dry Spanish sparkling is produced with a blend of macabeo (one of the three grapes commonly used to produce Cava) and chardonnay. It was made as a wine before using specialized equipment to remove the alcohol (less than 0.5 per cent alcohol by volume remains in this bottle), leaving the characteristic apple, stone fruit and honey notes. Drink now. Available at the above price direct, sansorium.com, $36 from thesobrmarket.com (Manitoba), $28.99 from dryvariety.com (Ontario), $29.95 from upsidedrinks.ca (Quebec).
Juli Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (Argentina), $15.95
Juli is a new label from Santa Julia that makes its debut in Ontario, with a ripe and juicy red make from organic cabernet sauvignon and bonarda grapes grown in Mendoza, Argentina. This made in a crowd-pleasing, fruity style that puts the emphasis on jammy cherry and berry flavours, with some spicy notes. Soft and simple, but nicely balanced. Drink now to 2025. Available in Ontario.
Rhonéa Tradition Rasteau 2020 (France), $19.95
A leading producer of fortified wines, the village of Rasteau in the southern Rhône also produces dry red wines from grenache, syrah and mourvedre (with carignan and cinsault also permitted in the blends). This satisfying example comes from one of the region’s co-operatives and offers nicely concentrated fruit, with herbal, spice and leather notes. Its ripe and soft character is balanced by bright acidity. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario, $18.45 in Quebec.
Rigour & Whimsy Bifröst 2022 (Canada), $28
Based in Okanagan Falls, B.C., Rigour & Whimsy is a family-owned winery that produces a range of distinctive wines like this skin-fermented blend of pinot blanc and gewurztraminer. Red wines are made by fermenting grapes with the skins for colour and structure. Fermenting pinot blanc and gewurztraminer with their skins contributes colour (turning the usual lemon or gold colour into a deeper shade of amber) and tannin while maintaining the acidity of a white wine. The result is a dry and complex wine with floral, bitter orange and spice notes. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, the wine is cloudy and lets adventuresome wine lovers know to expect a flavourful, palate-coating wine. Drink now. Available direct, rigourandwhimsy.ca.
Rodney Strong Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (United States), $34.95
Rodney Strong continues to be a producer to watch for crowd-pleasing cabernets with structure and complexity. While the market is seeing an uptake in modern and glossy (perhaps jammy and sweet would be more apt descriptors) red wines from California, this continues to offer a rich, ripe and polished take on cabernet from Alexander Valley in Sonoma County. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, $40.98 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $37.49 in Prince Edward Island.
Tilia Chardonnay 2022 (Argentina), $15.95
An early champion of sustainable wine-growing practices in Argentina, Tilia produces this bright and flavourful expression of chardonnay in Mendoza. Made for mass appeal, it offers ripe melon, citrus and pear notes as part of its dry and refreshing character, which finishes with a lingering stony and cedary aftertaste. Drink now to 2026. Available in Ontario
Villa Wolf Pinot Noir 2021 (Germany), $19.95
This light, fruity and appealing red is a timely reminder that Germany is the third-largest producer of pinot noir, which is locally known as Spätburgunder. Made by Ernst Loosen’s Villa Wolf label, this offers a pleasant core of pure red fruit flavours as part of its straightforward expression of the grape variety. Simple and refreshing, serve slightly chilled for best enjoyment. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $16.70 in Quebec (2019 vintage).
Christopher Waters