In late August, there are more signs of a shift in the season, a hint of fall in the air. Baskets of tomatoes and other seasonal fruits are in abundance for those who make sauces and jams to enjoy later in the year. The sun is setting earlier than it was at the beginning of summer; soon an extra layer will be necessary when lingering outside in the evening, digesting and discussing.
There are those who cling tightly to the remaining long, sunny days, while others are gearing up for crisp fall weather to come. My wine selections of late suggest I’m looking forward. Red wine consumption is increasing, with richer and fuller bottles being opened and enjoyed in place of light and refreshing whites and rosés.
I’m increasingly in search of wines with complexity and character as opposed to vibrant and fruity styles. This week’s recommendations collect several classic and typically well-priced examples. Regions from Spain and Italy are well represented and there’s a recommendation for one of South Africa’s flagship red blends that continues to impress.
For endless summer fans, these are barbecue-friendly bottles ideal for late-season cookouts. They also pair beautifully with the baked and roasted dishes that are sure to come with the return of sweater weather.
Arboleda Carmenère 2021 (Chile), $19.95
Founded by Eduardo Chadwick, who owns Seña, Vinedos Chadwick and Errazruiz, Arboleda took root in the Aconcagua Valley in 1999. This robust and fragrant carmenère comes from the Las Vertientes vineyard and offers an old-school model of the grape that’s become one of Chile’s signature varieties. Medium-bodied and distinctly herbal in nature, this offers a mix of dark fruit (plum, cherry) with roasted green pepper, coffee and chocolate notes. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $29.99 in Nova Scotia, $23.49 in Prince Edward Island.
Castelli del Grevepesa Castelgreve Chianti Classico 2021 (Italy), $18.95
This rich and complex model of Chianti Classico offers mature leather, spice and nutty flavours as part of its developed character. Freshness comes from some juicy cherry and blood-orange fruit notes, with powdery tannins on the finish that suggest this is best enjoyed with a meal. Burgers, steaks or other roast meats would be solid matches here. Drink now to 2026. Available in Ontario.
Horizon de Bichot Pinot Noir 2022 (France), $19.95
The Horizon de Bichot label is sported by a chardonnay and pinot noir produced with grapes grown in different regions in Limoux, in the south of France. The riper expression of this pinot noir comes from blending more concentrated and fruit components from warmer vineyard locations and fresher and fragrant wines from cooler locales. The result is a dry and fruity wine offering sweet and fresh cherry/berry fruit flavours. The texture is silky and appealing before the finish dries out owing to youthful tannins. Best enjoyed with a meal. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta.
Meerlust Rubicon 2021 (South Africa), $63.95
Located 15 kilometres south of Stellenbosch, the Meerlust Estate has been part of the Myburgh family since 1756. This Bordeaux-style red, Rubicon, has been the flagship wine of the estate, and one of South Africa’s top wines since the 1980 vintage. The newly released 2021 vintage is a blend of mostly cabernet sauvignon and merlot with small additions of cabernet franc and petit verdot from four different vineyard blocks on the estate. In its youth this is a wine with poise and a core of pure dark fruit flavours. There’s admirable intensity and depth of flavour, as well as structure that make this approachable now (decant for best enjoyment) or an admirable addition to your cellar. Drink now to 2040. Available in Ontario.
Molino a Vento Nero d’Avola Sicilia 2021 (Italy), $12.75
This distinctive and vibrant red wine comes from Tenute Orestiadi’s vineyards in Sicily. It’s made with nero d’avola grapes, which are a consistent source of flavourful and enjoyable wines that offer good value for their price. A mix of juicy black cherry, clove and pepper notes stand out as part of its robust character. The wine is a natural companion for meat and game. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, $20.79 in New Brunswick, $22.99 in Nova Scotia, $21.49 in Prince Edward Island.
Palacio de Primavera Vendimia Seleccionada Reserva 2019 (Spain), $17.95
Made from 100-per-cent tempranillo, this displays dark red fruit, tobacco leaf and cedar flavours typical in reserve wines from Rioja in northern Spain. Aging in a mixture of American and French oak barrels contributes to the sweetness of the fruit, and the texture and structure of the finished wine. More rustic than elegant, this has a gutsy character that appeals. Drink now to 2032. Available in Ontario.
Poderi di Luigi Einaudi Dogliani 2022 (Italy), $28.95
The Dogliani appellation in Piedmont is a source of red wines produced with the dolcetto grape variety. The best examples are complex and concentrated such as this, wines with serious structure and appealing fruit and savoury flavours. This youthful example shows a fresh character with a tannic edge. Expect concentrated dark fruit (blueberry, blackberry), and a pleasing mix of creamy and sweet flavours with earthy and spicy notes that add interest. A fun wine to serve with eggplant parmigiana, lasagna or most any type of pizza or pasta with a tomato sauce. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta.
Radio Boka Tempranillo 2023 (Spain), $12.95
There’s not a lot of tempranillo character, structure or complexity waiting to be discovered in this value-priced wine. It’s made for fans of soft and sweet (13 g/litre residual sweetness) reds, but that overwhelming fruity personality strikes me as a solid base for a sangria. Drink now. Vegan friendly. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $16.99 in Saskatchewan, $13.99 in Manitoba, $17.86 in Newfoundland.