Yalumba's winemakers produce organic, vegan and low-alcohol wines and are strong advocates for the viognier, riesling and grenache grapes as well as cabernet-syrah blends.Supplied
Louisa Rose is deeply familiar with Yalumba winery’s rich, 175 years of history in Australia.
“Wine is all about stories,” says the veteran winemaker who is travelling the U.K. and U.S. to share how the Hill-Smith family-owned winery nurtures ancient vines while keeping with the times.
“Stories about vintages, the people, the sort of oak that was used – they become part of our being and give us confidence to make the right decisions for the long-term future.”
Rose was hired out of winemaking school in 1993, becoming an assistant winemaker to Brian Walsh and Peter Wall, who in turn were mentored by chief winemaker Rudy Kronberger, an Austria native who came to make wine at Yalumba in 1928.
“It’s the only place I have ever worked,” explains Rose, who retired as head winemaker in 2023 to become head of sustainability for the company based in Angaston, south Australia.
She recalls Wall talking about Kronberger as if he was sitting in the room next door. “It’s that knowledge that gets passed along, those stories that get passed along,” she explains.
Louisa Rose was hired by Yalumba in 1993 and retired as head winemaker in 2023 to become its head of sustainability.Supplied
The Hill-Smith family’s focus isn’t solely on tomorrow’s profitability; you’re not going to be sustainable if you’re not profitable, but it’s about bringing the business to the next generation, Rose adds.
Yalumba has evolved with the times, acting as a caretaker to some of Australia’s oldest vineyards in the Barossa, dating back to 1900, 1889 and 1854, while continuing to introduce new products. Its winemakers produce organic, vegan and low-alcohol wines. They are strong advocates for the viognier, riesling and grenache grapes as well as cabernet-syrah blends.
The family also operates other wine brands, including Pewsey Vale, Heggies and Jansz. An integrated business model also includes a cooperage to make barrels to age the wine and a vine nursery that supplies the family’s wineries needs and sells to the Australian industry.
Yalumba’s flagship range includes labels such as the Caley, the Virgilius and Octavius, but most Canadian consumers would know the more affordably priced Y Series Viognier and Samuel’s Collection Bush Vine Grenache.
Inspired by this year’s milestone celebrations, the Museum Collection will see the re-release of some of Yalumba’s finest wines after extended aging, up to 20 years, in the winery’s cellar. The hope is to bring more attention to their age-worthy character by showing how pleasurable they are as mature wines. (One of the first Museum releases, the Signature 2014, is available in select liquor stores in Alberta.)
The Signature is a cabernet-syrah blend whose label honours employees who have made significant contributions to the culture and traditions of the winery. First released in 1962 and produced only in exceptional years, the Signature is one of the winery’s most celebrated releases.
Rose’s efforts were singled out in 2016, while Kevin Glastonbury and Robin Nettelbeck, two other members of the winemaking team, appear on the 2019 label. However, honorees aren’t always high-ranking or high-profile workers.
The current release from the 2021 vintage is a tribute to Chris Gerhardy, a 52-year veteran who started on the bottling line and rose to become the company’s packaging and development manager. His father Colin, who worked at Yalumba for 49 years, was the signatory of the 1988 vintage.
This week’s reviews focus on three of Yalumba’s top wines, which are available in select provinces. The current release of the Y Series Viognier, which enjoys distribution across much of the country ($15 to $24 range), received 90 points in April 24′s column.
There is also a recommendation for another winery seeking to showcase how its wines develop in the cellar: the family-owned Poplar Grove in the Okanagan. It’s just-launched Library Collection features three Bordeaux reds from the 2014 vintage that have been held back in a temperature- and humidity-controlled warehouse for release as 10-year-old wines.
Poplar Grove The Legacy 10-Year Release 2014 (Canada), $108.61
The 2014 vintage of Poplar Grove the Legacy was the top-scoring wine in a blind tasting of international benchmarks (Blackbird Arise, Dominus Napanook and DeLille D2) and red wines from British Columbia organized by the B.C. Wine Institute in 2018. The blend of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, malbec and petit verdot continues to be impressive, having developed into a complex and complete wine, with mature leather and roasted red pepper notes mingling with primary (cassis, blackberry) and secondary (vanilla, chocolate) flavours. Drink now to 2030. Available direct, poplargrove.ca.
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Yalumba The Octavius Old Vines Shiraz 2017 (Australia), $174
Named for the specially constructed 100-litre octave barrels used to age this old-vine Barossa Shiraz (oldest vineyard planted in 1854), Octavius offers a modern approach to winemaking. Made in a fresh and juicy style, this shows attractive floral, peppery and fruit notes as part of its concentrated and harmonious personality. Still youthful; time in the cellar will reward your patience. Drink now to 2035. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta.
Steve McCawley/Supplied
Yalumba The Menzies Cabernet 2017 (Australia), $87
The Menzies is a provocative expression of Coonawarra cabernet with a ripe and savoury character. A mix of mint and fennel aromas add interest and intensity. The flavours suggest an array of dark fruit, cedar and black olive notes. For best enjoyment, tuck away for three to five years more. Drink now to 2037. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta.
Steve McCawley/Supplied
Yalumba The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2018 (Australia), $90
A red blend with strong south Australia personality, this fragrant and flavourful wine presents floral and menthol aromas with a core of plum and berry fruit. It’s integrated and approachable now, with tremendous potential for aging thanks to its refined structure and polished tannins. Drink now to 2035. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $85.25 in Quebec, $76.99 in Nova Scotia.
Steve McCawley/Supplied