Marc Kent, managing partner and technical director for Boekenhoutskloof in Franschhoek, South Africa.Boekenhoutskloof
Marc Kent stops pouring a sample of his famous red blend, the Chocolate Block, when asked to recall how much wine he made in its first vintage. “Fifteen barrels,” answers the managing partner and technical director for Boekenhoutskloof in Franschhoek, South Africa.
The idea behind the Chocolate Block, a blend of mostly syrah with grenache and cabernet sauvignon, came while Kent tasted successful blends from producers in the south of France and Priorat. Boekenhoutskloof’s winemaking team put its own spin on things when cinsault and viognier, a white-wine grape that Kent thought would contribute more perfume to the finished wine, were added to round out the blend.
“With its Mediterranean climate, South Africa is eminently suited to blended reds,” Kent explained shortly after the Chocolate Block made its debut in 2003.
Those 15 barrels were bottled for release to markets unaccustomed to paying a premium price for South African wine. The new release was positioned with a retail price between existing Boekenhoutskloof brands, the affordable Porcupine Ridge label ($15 range) and the top-of-the-line syrah ($40 range) and other varietally labelled wines bottled under the winery’s name. The packaging and the compelling wine inside the bottle would find a sweet spot with consumers.
The 2021 vintage that he’s pouring today represents the wine’s 20th edition. Its front label reports that the blend now fills 3,349 barrels to meet the demand of wine lovers in 60 different countries around the world. Its price has gone up, too. The current 2020 release sells for more than $40 a bottle in markets across Canada. (Stores are expected to receive the 20th anniversary bottling next year.)
Despite its chocolatey moniker, this isn’t a heavily mocha or Valrhona-flavoured red. Instead, the name projects a rich, flavourful style that’s become a benchmark for premium South African wine around the world. Its allure comes from its velvety texture and layers of flavours that are an expression of all the components used in the blend, which make for a different experience than enjoying any of the varieties on their own.
“I don’t think there are any other South African brands at that price point that command that sort of attention,” Kent explains. “I think South Africa needs more premium brands, with some scale to wave the flag.”
The Chocolate Block has increased its production volume without sacrificing quality through investments in vineyards, cellar capability and oak barrels. In 2015, the decision was made to make the wine exclusively from grapes grown in the Swartland region, which is considered South Africa’s best spot for syrah and is home to premium wineries like Badenhorst, Sadie Family and Mullineux.
More than half of the grapes used for the Chocolate Block come from vineyards that Boekenhoutskloof purchased in Swartland in 2009: Goldmine and Porseleinberg. These sites representing 120 to 130 hectares in production are managed by Callie Louw, who also makes a syrah under the Porseleinberg label, which is recognized as one of South Africa’s very best.
Seven wines to buy now
Flat Rock Riddled Sparkling 2020 (Canada), $34.95
Riddled is the vintage dated sparkling wine produced by Flat Rock Cellars when conditions warrant. This is the first since the 2017 and 2011 releases. Produced from chardonnay from the estate vineyard in Jordan, Ont., this was fermented in barrel for added richness and texture before being bottled for secondary fermentation. The result is an appetizing mix of citrus and apple flavours with bready and nutty notes. Drink now to 2030. Available in Ontario at the above price or direct, $35.15 from flatrockcellars.com.
Gérard Bertrand Source of Joy Rosé 2021 (France), $26.95
This expressive rosé is made from organically grown grenache, syrah and cinsault grapes from vineyards in the Languedoc region in the south of France. It’s pleasantly fruity and harmonious, with appealing texture and weight and a nice refreshing character. Vegan friendly. Drink now to 2024. Available in Ontario at the above price, $29.99 in New Brunswick.
Luke Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (United States), $36.95
Washington’s Columbia Valley is a proven source of complex and age-worthy cabernets, like this one. Produced in the arid and warm Wahluke Valley, this wine delivers ripe fruit with savoury and serious character. It offers terrific value for the money. Drink now to 2026. Available in Ontario at the above price.
Quails’ Gate Stewart Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2020 (Canada), $59.99
The Stewart Family Reserve label is used to showcase what’s deemed the best pinot noir and chardonnay produced each vintage from Quails’ Gate’s estate vineyards in Kelowna, B.C. The 2020 pinot noir release offers an impressive wine with a core of ripe dark-fruit and savoury notes that’s balanced by bright acidity and polished texture. The style is rich and rewarding, with serious potential to mature in the cellar. Drink now to 2032. Available in British Columbia at the above price or $59 direct, quailsgate.com, various prices in Alberta, $60 in Manitoba, $52 in Quebec (2019 vintage).
San Pedro 1865 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (Chile), $35.95
Made with cabernet sauvignon grapes grown on vines planted more than 70 years ago in Chile’s Curico Valley, this is a classic example of the grape and the place. A red wine with generous complexity and character, its flavours suggest a ripe core of red fruit with herbal/leafy and cedar notes. This has the structure and intensity to age and benefits from decanting if you’re planning on enjoying soon. Drink now to 2028. Available in Ontario.
The Chocolate Block 2020 (South Africa), $39.95
The blend of grape varieties, including a splash of viognier, makes for a complex and layered red with a rich and ripe character. The style in 2020 is spicy, peppery and fruity in turns, with an underlying meaty and savoury note. Those flavours and a polished and supple texture continue to make this a hit. Drink now to 2030. Vegan friendly. Available in Ontario at the above price, $44.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $46.99 in Manitoba, $42.25 in Quebec, $42.99 in New Brunswick.
Winemaker’s Cut Bohemian Riesling 2020 (Canada), $24
This is a tremendous riesling from a vineyard located near Oliver in the Okanagan Valley. The mix of tropical, citrus and peachy fruit really impresses as does the structure and refreshing character. An easy-going, uncomplicated white wine with a lot of charm. Drink now to 2030. Available direct, winemakerscut.ca.
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Christopher Waters