Plan your weekend with our Good Taste newsletter, offering wine advice and reviews, recipes, restaurant news and more. Sign up today.
The Burrowing Owl winery in Oliver, B.C., which was founded by Jim Wyse in 1998.Supplied
When developer Jim Wyse started to acquire land in the Okanagan Valley in 1993 to grow grapes, running a winery wasn’t the plan. Land was purchased on Black Sage Road and a partnership was established with Calona Vineyards.
The quality of Wyse’s grapes helped Calona’s premium Sandhill brand develop its sterling reputation thanks to award-winning merlots, cabernet francs and syrahs. That success would eventually inspire Wyse to found Burrowing Owl Estate in 1998, which instantly drew acclaim for the robust and richly flavoured reds produced by Bill Dyer, a Napa Valley-based winemaker who established the winery’s style through its early vintages.
From left: Chris Wyse, Jim Wyse, Midge Wyse and Kerri McNolty of Burrowing Owl.Supplied
A number of winemakers have gone through Burrowing Owl’s cellars since, but the concentrated and complex nature of its red wines continues. The merlot is consistently a strong suit, showing ripe and polished character with attractive oak-derived notes from the mix of French, American, Hungarian and Russian oak barrels used for aging. The various types of oak contribute different aromas and flavours into the wine over time, which builds complexity in the final blend.
The current release of Burrowing Owl merlot, which continues to deliver its ripe and rich character, is part of a spotlight release at LCBO Vintages outlets and enjoys distribution in other markets. It’s recommended alongside a mix of gratifying wines that come from other estate wineries as well as ones that come from quality-minded co-operatives. It’s a timely reminder that good wine can come from artisanal small-batch producers as well as large corporations. While three family vineyards are responsible for Yalumba’s organic viognier, Cellier des Dauphins in the Rhône includes more than 2,000 members of multiple co-operatives. Big isn’t necessarily bad in the world of wine. As you follow production from the vine to wine, you’ll find a lot of families involved in the enterprise.
Burrowing Owl Estate Winery Merlot 2018 (Canada), $39.95
A blend of merlot grapes grown at Burrowing Owl’s vineyards in Oliver and Osoyoos, the 2018 vintage offers the character and complexity one expects from one of the Okanagan’s flagship wines. The mix of plum and berry fruit is juicy and bright, with spice, herbal and floral notes adding depth and dimension. As is always the case, the wine’s solid structure makes for a firmer as opposed to soft and fleshy model of merlot. Drink now to 2028. Available in Ontario at the above price, $32 in British Columbia and direct through burrowingowlwine.ca, various prices in Alberta, $42.49 in Saskatchewan, $45 in Nova Scotia.
Cellier des Dauphins Vinsobres 2017 (France), $19.95
Cellier des Dauphins is an organization of 13 different co-operative wineries, which makes them one of the largest producers of wines from the Rhône Valley. This full-bodied blend of grenache and syrah is one of the company’s premium releases. It comes exclusively from the village of Vinsobres and features crowd-pleasing ripe and concentrated fruit flavours with some floral and spice notes. Drink now to 2024. Available in Ontario.
Horizon de Bichot Pinot Noir 2018 (France), $18.95
Produced by Burgundy-based Albert Bichot as a Vin de France, this bright and juicy red is made with pinot noir grown in Limoux in the south of France. The high-elevation hillside sites temper the region’s hot climate, which helps these pinot noir grapes ripen without losing freshness or purity. Bottled with a screwcap and ready to drink, this is a rewarding bistro red. Drink now to 2022. Available at the above price in Ontario, $20 in Quebec.
KWV Cathedral Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 (South Africa), $17.95
Made with cabernet sauvignon grapes grown in Stellenbosch, Bottelary and other regions of South Africa, this crowd-pleasing red offers nicely concentrated fruit with savoury and spicy complexity. It has a fresh and juicy character, with structure to develop with age. Drink now to 2025. Available at the above price in Ontario ($15.95 until Jan. 31), $17.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $19 in Quebec.
Mission Hill Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 (Canada), $29.95
According to the winemaking team, this is typically one of the smallest reserve red releases, owing to the challenge of securing enough top-quality cabernet sauvignon to fit the bill for this and Mission Hill’s icon series. To my taste, it’s always an impressive style of cabernet, with structure, complexity and nicely concentrated fruit and savoury flavours. Available in Ontario at the above price, $36.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta.
Nals Margreid Punggl Pinot Grigio 2018 (Italy), $31.95
This is a pricey but remarkably enjoyable pinot grigio from a quality-minded co-operative that includes more than 100 growers stretching from the villages of Nals to Margreid in Alto Adige. It’s rich and concentrated character is nicely balanced, with a core of ripe fruit, appealing texture and a refreshing finish. Drink now to 2025. Available in Ontario.
Simi Chardonnay 2018 (United States), $22.95
This rich and rewarding style of chardonnay comes from one of Sonoma County’s pioneering wineries. The final blend includes grapes from vineyards in regions throughout Sonoma, including Alexander Valley, Russian River and Sonoma Coast, which adds to the full-bodied and full-flavoured character. It’s a fresh take on the old-school creamy and ripe model of California chardonnay. Drink now to 2023. Available in Ontario at the above price, $21.40 in Quebec.
Wirra Wirra Church Block Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2017 (Australia), $24.99
Church Block is a blend of cabernet, shiraz and merlot from vineyards in McLaren Vale that can be counted on to deliver layers of ripe fruit, herbal and chocolate notes, with a smooth texture and lingering finish. This is a flavourful red that’s enjoyable right away but has the stuffing to age. Drink now to 2030. Available in British Columbia at the above price, $23.99 in Manitoba.
Yalumba Organic Viognier 2019 (Australia), $16.95
As one of the foremost experts on growing and making top-quality viognier, Yalumba produces an exciting and exotic range of white wines from this fragrant and fruity grape each year. This affordable label is always one to watch. Coming from three organically certified vineyards, it offers classic viognier floral and spice notes alongside apricot and peach notes. Rich and refreshing, this is a flavourful and exciting wine. Vegan friendly. Drink now to 2023. Available in Ontario at the above price, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta.