The Kigali Genocide Memorial not only honours the lives lost but provides a safe space for survivors to mourn at the burial site where over 250,000 Rwandans are buried.Andrew Renneisen/Getty Images
Like many, I’ve come to Rwanda to see endangered mountain gorillas and experience the wild wonders of the “Land of a Thousand Hills,” as the country is called. But the purpose behind my pilgrimage is deeper in this destination. As an adoptee of mixed race, I was pleased to discover my African roots through an ancestry test, and those recently revealed results led me to Rwanda, one of the African countries of my ancestors.
I wasn’t searching for specific family members, I just wanted to see if I felt a connection with the culture and the place. I’ve come to Kigali for a deep dive into the history, culture and cuisine as a way to connect with the people, and my roots.
Kigali comes alive at Kimironko Market, the country’s largest farmers’ market, housed in a massive red warehouse that stretches the length of two city blocks.Bianca Bujan/The Globe and Mail
This type of travel is common, explains Morgan Westcott, associate dean of marketing management at the British Columbia Institute of Technology. “Because of the DNA component, some people are now connecting to a culture from scratch. They might not have stories [recipes, songs, customs] to go from, so they are building an itinerary based on their own interests, however these intersect with their ancestry.”
To immerse myself in Kigali’s contemporary culture, I knew I first had to develop a deeper understanding of the country’s recent past. My first stop was the Kigali Genocide Memorial, a site inspired by the National Holocaust Centre in the U.K., and created by Rwandan authorities and the Aegis Trust for Genocide Prevention. There, I read details of the genocide against the Tutsi, shed tears as I watched video testimonials from survivors and walked through rooms filled with photos of the many lives lost in the 1994 killings.
The Memorial not only honours the lives lost but provides a safe space for survivors to mourn at the burial site where over 250,000 Rwandans are buried. It also acts as an educational tool, showcasing evidence-based causes of conflict and what helps to build peace.
To immerse myself in Kigali’s contemporary culture, I knew I first had to develop a deeper understanding of the country’s recent past.JEAN BIZIMANA/Reuters
As I exit the indoor exhibits, a docent offers a solemn smile and hands me a long-stemmed rose. I stroll through the seven botanical gardens that encircle the site – each with a theme: unity, reconciliation, reflection, protection, life, memory and movement – and I read about the significance of each stone placement and plant display. This lush landscape is sectioned into small spaces for contemplation, the floral fragrances and noiseless nooks leave me feeling overwhelmed with emotion. Before I leave, I place my rose on a grave and take a moment to honour the lives lost.
For more Rwandan history, I head one kilometre outside the city to the Ethnographic Museum, the oldest and largest museum in Rwanda, where artifacts provide rich insight into the country’s culture. I walk through the exhibits, reading about the historical significance of each element – from clothing to crafts to the eye-catching Kagondo hut (a life-sized replica of precolonial housing). I step into the doorway of the small shack and picture my ancestors occupying the small space.
Rwanda is considered to be one of the safest African countries for tourists, however you’ll want to travel with a local guide because of language barriers and for access to restricted areas (national parks require an armed guard).Visit Rwanda/Supplied
Kigali comes alive at Kimironko Market, the country’s largest farmers’ market, housed in a massive red warehouse that stretches the length of two city blocks. Local residents come for everything from tomatoes to textiles, but it’s also a social meeting spot and a one-stop shop for household goods.
I arrive early on a Monday morning, escorted by my guide and our small group of travellers, and as I step out of the vehicle, I am immediately overwhelmed. Around me, the street is buzzing as people rush inside to shop, and as we follow, all eyes are on us. It is clear we’re not from here. As I approach the entrance, a man meanders past me carrying two live chickens by their feet in one hand, while pushing a bike – piled high with three bags of rice tied to the seat – with the other.
Inside, a swarm of sweet salespeople are eager to sell me handmade garments. Colourful fabrics decorate the walls in a rainbow of traditional East African patterns, and I’m overwhelmed with options.
Bianca Bujan in dress from the Kimironko market
A vendor offers to make me a dress in one hour, and I am tempted. She flips through pages of different styles and pattern choices made with the Kitenge fabrics that surround me. I can’t resist, and point to a yellow and orange pattern hanging above my head, then an image of a knee-length dress in her booklet. She quickly takes my measurements, and I pay her the requested US$60 (I learn later that it’s customary to barter for a better price). Then I move deeper into the dark market. Later, I tried on my new purchase. It fit perfectly and becomes a precious keepsake.
I do a little more shopping at Nyamirambo Women’s Center, a co-operative that educates and trains women. Over 50 work in the building’s connecting rooms, some as seamstresses, others teaching important skills so women can develop their own streams of income, such as hair braiding or guiding community tours. I choose some handmade gifts for my kids, and the women gush with gratitude as I wave goodbye.
For a taste of Kigali cuisine, I find a seat on the patio with my tour group at Repub Lounge, a modern eatery serving up East African fare as I take in views of downtown Kigali and the rolling hills that stretch to the horizon.
I try an array of Rwandan dishes, such as salty Sambaza (tiny fried fish from nearby Lake Kivu), skewers of Beef Mishkaki cooked over coals, Ibishyimbo (boiled Rwandan red beans), and fried Mizuzu (plantains). The dishes are simple and savoury (Rwandans use few spices). On another day, I will discover my new favourite beer: Virunga Gold at Boho Restaurant, a newer Afro-fusion spot, where I sipped and nibbled on plantain chips with a creamy curry and herb sauce.
I need some caffeine before my long drive to the mountains and pop into One Cup Roasters, a cafe that supports local farmers. There, I sip on a foamy cup of cappuccino and chat with Andrew Gatera, the CEO, who explains how coffee has evolved in his country. While coffee is a cash crop in Kigali, coffee culture is still emerging, as most locals prefer tea. As a lifelong tea drinker myself, I wonder if this is another uncovered connection.
As I depart Kigali toward the volcanoes in search of mountain gorillas, I reflect on my journey through the country’s capital. My newfound understanding of its history, appreciation for local cuisine and immersion into the welcoming community allowed me to feel a sense of belonging and pride in my African heritage.
As I depart Kigali toward the volcanoes in search of mountain gorillas, I reflect on my journey through the country’s capital.astepforever/Getty Images
If you go
Canadians can visit visa-free. It is a good idea to carry cash. Rwandan Francs are your best bet (if you can find them) but U.S. dollars are accepted almost everywhere.
Custom-made clothing at Kimironko Market makes for a great keepsake, but take time to shop around and explore your options, and be sure to barter for the best price.
Rwanda is considered to be one of the safest African countries for tourists, however you’ll want to travel with a local guide because of language barriers and for access to restricted areas (national parks require an armed guard). You can book a tour directly through Visit Rwanda (visitrwanda.com).
Special to The Globe and Mail
The writer was a guest of Visit Rwanda, the agency did not review or approve the story.