Off Duty is a series of lively conversations with influential people, from CEOs to celebrities, on life, work and the art of taking time off.
Sash Simpson.Illustration by Photo Illustration by The Globe
As a young boy, Sash Simpson found himself abandoned by his family, fending for himself on the rugged streets of Chennai, India. After years of begging for food, jumping on and off trains and stealing to survive, he sought refuge at the Families for Children orphanage. “Mummy, Canada, Canada,” he pleaded when Canadian founder Sandra Simpson visited. She and her partner, Lloyd, adopted Sash when he was 8.
Decades later, the Toronto-based chef is gearing up for the release of Born Hungry, a documentary from Canadian filmmaker Barry Avrich about his journey from orphan to restaurateur – and his first visit back to India.
Ahead of the film’s Hot Docs premiere, Simpson shared what it meant to reacquaint himself with his homeland, what he hopes to incorporate into his cooking at Sash Restaurant and Wine Bar moving forward and the power of second chances.
After 40-plus years, why was it time to return to India?
I’m learning who I am. When I was a little boy, I didn’t want to know about my past, and I never wanted to go back to India. As I got older, I held many things inside about me, my country and my real family. I’m learning to embrace myself, what my life has become and where I’m from. It was tough to be in that situation, and I don’t know how any child could be in it. I’m blessed.
Did anything trigger your memories?
I was immediately overcome with emotions. The smell, the colours and the complete chaos kept giving me flashbacks. I can’t pinpoint one thing, so many were coming at me. Remembering sitting and begging, I forgot what I now have – and it was a totally different view of me. It is very humbling.
What was being back in Chennai like?
I was a little kid in a candy store, just excited to see everything. Anybody who has never been to India must go. The only negative part is the journey, but I love long journeys. I get to sleep, I get to relax. But you don’t know what you’re getting into. Was I nervous? Oh, my goodness. I was like, why am I doing this? I’m looking forward to going back and learning about myself over and over and over. Being from India and raised in Canada, I have the best of both worlds. A lot of people only have one country; I have two.
Having experienced India now as an adult, has your view about the country changed in any way?
I remember one of my friends telling me back in the day, “You’re the whitest Indian I know.” I was raised here, and that’s all I know. Going back, I was like, wow, I need to put a lot of time into this because I’ve lost so many years of it. I’m very proud to be Indian. At one stage, I never wanted to be from India because it was not good to me. When I got adopted, India was considered a Third World country. I get very emotional when talking about it because it’s growing. It’s one of the best countries in the world, and everybody knows it.
Is there anything you want to incorporate into your cooking moving forward?
Going back to India and seeing the spices available is insane. I already incorporate curries and stuff into my menus, but being there, there’s so much more to Indian spices than I’m used to. Moving forward, I want to learn more about Indian cooking for my infusion of spices and flavours.
Since visiting, has your relationship with the orphanage changed?
Eventually, I want [to open] a business in India to support the orphanage. I do not want to see it ever close, even when I die. My mom passed away – the torch is in our hands now. I’m one of the kids who will spearhead it with my sister to ensure kids are off the streets, have a home, three meals a day, schooling and anything they need to make their lives better, just like I did.
What ingredient is always in your fridge or pantry?
Chinese noodles. I come from a big family with 32 brothers and sisters from all over the world. I had a Vietnamese brother studying for school like there was no tomorrow. But every Saturday, he would go to Chinatown to get a box of noodles, and I would go with him. My sons eat them now. It’s always been a quick meal. It’s cheap.
The restaurant industry is gruelling. How do you balance work and life?
I always say failure is not an option. Never has been, never will be. I look at that as motivation. What I can do is to keep my family happy – spend time with my kids and my wife – and come to this other family of mine, which is a restaurant and keep it motivated. When I built the restaurant, the pandemic shattered a lot of my visions. I’m still trying to get forward on this. I’m not saying I’m the saviour of the restaurant, but it’s my restaurant. It’s a big deal. I have to be here to ensure everything goes how I see it. The balances are tough, but I just have to get through it.
Leaving work behind, how do you unwind?
I like being on a golf course – that’s my getaway zone. I put my phone on mute but I am still looking at it. I do take a lot of phone calls on the golf course – welcome to being a restaurateur! You’re on 24/7. The golf course relaxes me.
What are you hoping viewers will gain from watching Born Hungry?
I’m proud of this movie. It takes good people around you to make things happen; nothing gets done alone. I might be the subject of this, but I have to thank my family and friends – everybody who made this explode. Second chances are always available; never lose hope.
One in a regular series of stories. To read more, visit our Inspired Dining section.