With some of Québec’s most dramatic landscapes, including the majestic Laurentian mountains, pristine lakes and the St. Lawrence River, Charlevoix is a hot spot for winter-weather getaways.
Olympic gold medallist Ann-Renée Desbiens, who grew up in Charlevoix, says the region is a must-visit for nature lovers.Supplied
There’s plenty to do for the outdoor enthusiast, from skiing and skating to snowmobiling and snowshoeing. There’s also a rich culinary scene, with lively bistros and bars serving the region’s homegrown delicacies such as lamb, foie gras, cheeses and fresh pastries topped with local berries.
But what really sets the Charlevoix region apart is how peaceful and welcoming it is.
“I go back whenever I have some time off,” says Ann-Renée Desbiens, an Olympic medallist and one of the stars of Canada’s women’s national hockey team. The acclaimed goaltender who won silver in Pyeongchang (2018) and gold in Beijing (2022) knows the region well. She grew up in La Malbaie, a small town located at the mouth of two rivers near mountains for skiing, trails for snowmobiling and plenty of ice rinks. It’s where she first strapped on skates and learned to become one of the sport’s best goalies.
“I’ve travelled quite a bit and Charlevoix is one of my favourite destinations,” says Desbiens, who now plays for PWHL Montreal. “Obviously, my family’s there, but as somebody who has a very busy lifestyle, going back to Charlevoix allows me to recover, to rest. It’s definitely more peaceful than a lot of other places I’ve been.”
In the winter, it’s a place where everyone spends as much time in nature as possible, says Desbiens. “You can explore in so many different ways.”
Snowshoeing the trails at Sentier des Caps is a picturesque way to take in panoramic views under endless skies.Supplied
Thrilling runs and stunning views
Petite-Rivière-Saint-François is one of Desbiens’ favourite destinations in Charlevoix. This charming riverfront village was the first settlement in the area and has a rich history of agriculture, eel fishing and wooden boat-building. Located just an hour from Québec City, Petite-Rivière-Saint-François is often visitors’ first introduction to Charlevoix because of its most famous attraction – Le Massif de Charlevoix ski resort. This snowy paradise features 53 trails for skiing and snowmobiling, including the highest vertical drop east of the Rockies and stunning views of the St. Lawrence River.
“If you love skiing, it’s a very special place. On some of the downhill runs, it almost feels like you’re going to jump into the waters of the St. Lawrence,” Desbiens says.
In addition to the excellent ski facilities, Le Massif boasts cross-country trails through peaceful boreal forests and a soaring Gondola ride suspended between sea, sky and mountains. Desbiens also recommends the thrilling 7.5km sled run down Mont Liguori from peak to base. There’s even an option for night sledding, where you’ll put on a headlamp for your exhilarating ride down.
Mont Grand-Fonds in La Malbaie is a winter playground for outdoor enthusiasts, with 140 kilometres of scenic cross-country ski trails.Supplied
Be sure to fuel up at the top of the mountain with a meal at Camp Boule Buvette de Montagne, a cozy peak-side restaurant. It’s the perfect place to indulge in succulent beef that’s been grilled over a wood fire or the gooey goodness of a raclette made with delicious local Migneron cheese.
The arrival of Club Med Québec Charlevoix to the village in 2021 means there’s a new way to experience the mountain, says Desbiens.
“For those who like all-inclusive vacations, the Club Med means you can do all the things you would in any other international destination right in this small village,” says Desbiens. That includes live music, a nightclub, a spa, indoor pool and world-class restaurants. You don’t even have to be an overnight guest to take advantage of the resort’s amenities, thanks to the recent launch of day passes.
If you’re looking get even more up-close-and-personal with the local landscape, check out Sentier des Caps, a picturesque network of multi-use trails designed for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. The network features seven trails, with three located alongside Le Massif, and with lengths ranging from four to 13 kilometres. Spend a few hours swooshing along trails amidst snow-covered pine trees and panoramic views and you’ll never want to head back to the city.
An elegant dish at chic Chez Truchon in La Malbaie.Supplied
To really get a feel for the area and experience the warm hospitality of the locals, Desbiens recommends visiting some of the smaller businesses in Petite-Rivière-Saint-François. Auberge Le Four à Pain is one of her favourite spots for a meal.
“You’re definitely going to feel part of their family,” says Desbiens of dining in this warm, friendly establishment. Sample a freshly-made pepperoni, ham and cheese pizza from their wood-fired oven, or indulge in seafood fettucine or a filet mignon with their sumptuous, three-course table d’hôte.
First adventure, then dining
Desbiens also recommends visitors check out the highlights of her hometown La Malbaie. Mont Grand-Fonds is a perfect place to enjoy a crisp winter’s day, with over 20 downhill ski trails and 140 kilometres for scenic cross-country skiing. Another top family fun destination is Les Sources Joyeuses, an outdoor recreation centre featuring cross-country skiing, snowshoeing trails and invigorating tubing runs. Nord Expé offers snowmobile rentals and tours of the area; try an electric snowmobile for a silent ride through beautiful surrounding forests.
For peak adventure seekers, Desbiens recommends Projet Vertical, the “via ferrata” climbing experience on the cliffside under the Fairmont Le Manor Richelieu. Using rope bridges, zip lines and wooden crossings, you’ll scramble across the cliff while taking in breathtaking views of the St. Lawrence River.
To warm up after a day of adventuring, Desbiens often takes friends to La Maison du Bootlegger. Once a speakeasy during Prohibition, it’s now a grill house. “It’s really fun because when you go there, they’ll give you a tour of the facility. There are some secret spaces and also a live band.” When she wants a quieter evening and an elevated meal, she chooses Chez Truchon, a chic French bistro that features local ingredients.
The legendary Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu is perched on a cliff overlooking the St. Lawrence River.Supplied
With so much to do in Charlevoix, the tough part will be finding the time to do it all, says Desbiens. But don’t forget to make time to slow down.
“Often when I travel across the world, I find myself tired after my vacation because of the fast pace,” she says. “What truly makes Charlevoix special is the warm, welcoming people, the landscape, the view and slower pace.”
Advertising feature produced by Globe Content Studio with Tourisme Charlevoix. The Globe’s editorial department was not involved.