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Wading into the bog is an annual ritual for visitors to Muskoka Lakes Farm & Winery, which turns out dozens of tonnes of fruit each season

In Southern Ontario, two weeks before Thanksgiving, autumn leaves have barely begun to turn. But other signs of the season are afoot. At Muskoka Lakes Farm & Winery, one of Ontario’s oldest cranberry farms, it’s the first day of the harvest. Visitors from as far as the Dominican Republic, Texas and New Zealand have come to take part in “the plunge,” wading into a pool of freshly harvested berries – a seasonal ritual.

Cranberries are grown in bogs that stay dry for most of the year, but which are flooded to allow for easier harvesting come autumn. The berries, which are agitated by machines, fall from the shrubs and are kept afloat by the water. It’s a unique process for a native North American plant.

On Muskoka Lakes Farm & Winery, the owners and farmhands pick and produce 130 to 180 tonnes of cranberries yearly that grow on 27 acres of land. The berries will be sold fresh as well as turned into juice. And, of course, some will end up on Thanksgiving tables.

Cranberries grow in a dense tangle of vines that farmers flood at harvest time, agitating the bog with machines so berries float to the surface. Only a small amount of a cranberry farm is cultivated; the rest is a network of reservoirs and green space to keep the delicate ecosystems in balance.
Today’s plungers include Ginny and Justin Phillips from Houston and sisters Anna Giroux and Penny Dougherty, whose mother was visiting from New Zealand. Canada is the world's No. 2 cranberry producer, behind the United States, with most of the national output coming from Quebec and B.C.
Vaccinium macrocarpon, the species grown in Bala, is found only on this continent, where First Nations long ago learned its uses in food and medicine. They introduced the first settlers to the fruit as a remedy for scurvy and an ingredient in pemmican, which sustained fur traders on long journeys.
Owner Murray Johnston and his youngest son, Quinn – whose three brothers also help out at the farm – are in the second and third generation of Johnstons to run Muskoka Lakes. Murray’s parents, Orville and June, established it in 1950, passing it on to Murray and his wife, Wendy.
As Janelle Diaz keeps track of the conveyor belt, a scanner sorts the red cranberries from white ones, which, while ripe enough to eat, are less tart. Red berries are packaged and sold at grocery stores, while both kinds supply different types of wine that the farm offers.
Cranberries are evergreen shrubs, so the same beds can keep turning out fruit for decades, unless farmers clear them out for new varieties. At Muskoka Lakes, the harvest continues till the end of October. Then, the beds will be made ready for winter dormancy – and another season of visitors taking the plunge.

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