As more big grocery stores promote eating local, the way farmers’ markets are thinking of themselves is changing

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I still maintain a vivid memory of strolling through a farmers’ market in downtown Saskatoon as a child with my mother. Canopies with piles of fresh zucchini, golden beets with their roots still covered in dirt, bunches of dill weed, fragrant and two-feet long. The idea of a pop-up market that happened once a week and only sold vegetables seemed a bit odd as a kid. Little did I know it was something that people very much looked forward to, as the quality of produce you found at the grocery store paled in comparison.

A few decades later, seasonal summer farmers’ markets such as these still exist across the country, but many year-round markets have had to adapt.

In a world where “eat local” is plastered just as happily across the produce section of a large-scale grocer or the box of a grocery delivery company as it is on the stall of a produce vendor, you don’t have to go far (or anywhere at all) to get your hands on a farmer’s bounty.

Leilani Olynik works as a marketing-and-events specialist for the Calgary Farmers’ Market and says the way it approaches broadcasting the market and its vendors has changed dramatically since she came on board in early 2013.

“A few years ago, it was easy for us to just tout the ‘buy local’ line, but now a lot of big-box stores have hopped on that train as well – which we think is great, you should be supporting local farmers,” she says. “The difference here is that you can come and see the people that grow or raise the foods that you love. A farmers’ market can still offer that connection that stores and grocery-delivery services can’t.”

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The Calgary Farmers’ Market opened on Canada Day in 2004 at Currie Barracks, shut its doors in 2010 and relocated to its current location on Blackfoot Trail in 2011.

When Ms. Olynik joined the market, it had no social-media strategy, simply a minor presence on Facebook and Twitter. Over the past 6 1/2 years, she has worked toward a powerful brand presence. Now, Calgary’s premier market boasts the largest social-media following for any public market in Canada. Through social media, the market goes beyond the “local” messaging and reminds Calgarians that the market is a space that also fosters a connection between people and their food.

“Pike Place is very inspiring. There’s always something going on, they are well-connected to the community ... it’s a great experience,” Ms. Olynik says of the Seattle market that she feels sets the bar with brand presence. “I feel like you don’t find that with a lot of markets in Canada. A lot of them don’t have strong social-media feeds and in 2019, that kind of thing really does make a difference.”

In other words, the mentality of “the camera eats first” when dining at a restaurant applies at this market, too. A pile of plump, heirloom tomatoes as colourful as a rainbow at Blush Lane might first be thought of as an enticing Instagram picture before a delicious salad. A quick snapshot of a freshly baked peach pie from Yum Bakery can motivate a person to come through the doors much easier than a standard advertisement or flyer.

“Obviously, the focus that people are placing on social media as a way to get their information is huge,” Ms. Olynik says. “Very few of our vendors have social accounts because they just don’t have the time. For us, it’s a continuous discussion about storytelling and finding interesting ways to do that through our Instagram, Twitter or otherwise.”

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Marie Ghesquière recently opened up an eye-catching pastry stall at the market called She Bakes Bouquets. The former owner of the Ladybug Cafe was also a founding vendor of the original farmers’ market in 2004 and says that the market concept has changed substantially in 15 years in terms of what it offers and how things are presented.

“This is much more diverse than the original market. I love it here,” Ms. Ghesquière says. “I believe in the future and expanding this [market’s brand], building a community of unique vendors and offering even more diversity. It’s like making a beautiful flower bouquet, you need many different flowers.”

Ms. Olynik says that the look and concept of She Bakes Bouquets is something that set her apart from other businesses that have applied to become vendors here (there is currently a vendor waitlist). Simply having a good product is not enough to ensure success in today’s market atmosphere. Branding, design and overall business plans are also taken into account when business owners apply to be part of the Calgary market.

This year, the Calgary Farmers’ Market broke ground on a second location in the city’s Northwest. Slated to open in late fall of 2020, Ms. Olynik explains that the new market will be more dynamic and experiential than the current location, offering dedicated event spaces, a demonstration kitchen and more.

“We are the first market in North America to open a second location and it’s a great testament to the Calgary community demanding more local food,” she says. “We’re building from the ground up with an architecture and design team. It’s going to be something really innovative for Canada.”

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