Jhol Momo from Calgary Momo House.Glenn Lowson/The Globe and Mail
The popular phrase “will travel for food” is something not everyone follows through on.
This crossed my mind the first time I headed to the northeastern corner of Calgary to try the Nepalese food being prepared at Calgary Momo House. A trek across town to try out the buzzworthy restaurant from husband and wife team Prakash and Pooja Ale Magar felt well worth it, though, as I had heard nothing but raves from colleagues and friends.
Food writers all have their strengths when it comes to understanding cuisines from around the world, but few know or understand Nepalese cuisine. This is why the Magars’ restaurant has become such a draw for many here in the past year.
Nepal is a small, narrow country sandwiched between India and China, and its food culture boasts some elements of its northern and southern neighbours. Warming soups such as thukpa (a cumin-accented noodle soup), charcoal-grilled meats such as mutton or goat with tomato and chili chutneys, curry platters (thali) and beautifully formed dumplings known as momos are just a few examples of what to expect.
As its name would imply, making momos was what brought Calgary Momo House to life.
Shortly after the onset of the pandemic in Canada, Mr. Magar began making momos during the lockdown. Growing up, momos were a staple in his day-to-day life, and he wanted to share the comfort food with friends and colleagues.
Prakash Magar, co-owner of Calgary Momo House.Glenn Lowson/The Globe and Mail
“While our scientists were creating the vaccine, I was busy getting delicious Nepalese food served to people in the comfort of their homes. Not the same thing, I realize, but it was definitely something to get you through those times,” he said. “With continuous customer love and support, Calgary Momo House grew into what it is today.”
The restaurant officially opened its doors in the spring of 2021. Since then, its following in Calgary – those with Nepalese backgrounds and curious food lovers alike – has grown steadily.
“I believe the Nepalese food scene is starting to boom,” Mr. Magar said. “In the past there were Indian restaurants offering some Nepalese dishes, but very few authentic Nepalese restaurants existed. Today, we are seeing growth, and it makes me happy that Calgary Momo House is right at the centre of it.”
It goes without saying that momos remain a cornerstone of the restaurant’s menu. Each one is hand-formed and filled – a true labour of love that takes approximately two minutes – and they come in a myriad of styles, from steamed to fried, and stuffed with anything from chicken or ground mutton to paneer and vegetables.
“There is a machine that can make 300 dumplings per hour. However, we decided against it as we wanted to keep the process as authentic as you would find in Nepal,” Mr. Magar insisted.
One of the most traditional preparations is the jhol momos, which sees steamed momos nestled into a shallow layer of beautifully fragrant tomato soup. Less traditional are the chef’s deep-fried tandoori momos, which come piping hot and golden brown, dusted in a house tandoori spice mix. Pickled onions and microgreens, as well as dark-hued ceramic serving vessels, add subtle contemporary touches as well.
Less common dishes, such as the sukuti sandheko (a true textural delight comprising dried goat meat, crispy soybean and rice, pickles and chilies, definitely a must order) may not jump off the menu to a new-to-Nepalese-food patron, but that’s where Ms. Magar and her front-of-house team come in to help guide folks.
“They are very knowledgeable about the food and help the guests visualize the dishes on the menu. I believe having a cuisine that not too many people know about works in our favour, as it helps us drive home the ‘mystery’ element,” Mr. Magar said.
The success of Calgary Momo House helps set the stage for other Nepalese-owned businesses to find their footing. Several months ago, Aama Nepalese Cuisine opened in the town of Cochrane, Alta., and has been receiving plenty of buzz as well.
“The past couple of years have been tough on us all, but if you have a dream and have been waiting for the right time to turn your passion into a business, just have faith in your abilities and dive right in,” Mr. Magar said.
A Calgary Momo House specialty, Chilli Momo.Glenn Lowson photo/The Globe and Mail