The kitchen at Best of Kin brewery in Calgary on April 21.Todd Korol/The Globe and Mail
Location: 1059 14 St SW, Calgary
Phone: 825-413-4233
Website: bestofkin.ca
Price: $5-$30
Cuisine: Global-ish-inspired pub fare.
Atmosphere: Low-key casual.
Drinks on offer: Craft beer, cocktails, wine
Best bets: Best of Kin burger, double smoked bacon mac ‘n’ cheese, Summer Crush (radler)
Vegetarian friendly? Yes.
Additional information: Open seven days a week and also offers weekend brunch.
With well over 50 breweries in the general Calgary area, and about 180 breweries province-wide, the craft-beer scene has never been more bustling … or crowded. Being a newer kid on the beer block these days means you’ve got to be extra confident and bring something interesting to the table to capture whatever small piece of the market remains.
There are many reasons why Best of Kin – one of the city’s newest breweries – looks good on paper.
It’s the third brewpub to open in Calgary’s Sunalta neighbourhood since last year (first Tailgunner Brewing, followed by Two House Brewing Co.), providing dining options to an area of the city that had virtually none before. It has no shortage of events from trivia nights to live music and much in-between, and its dog-friendly patio perks up the ears of canines and their owners alike.
All of this is wrapped up in a heartwarming, age-old story of the owners leaving their day jobs to follow their passions. One thing that’s especially interesting is that the brewery found its initial footing by encouraging folks to purchase large-denomination gift cards ($500+) which includes various offers. A GoFundMe, of sorts, that seemed to give them a head start right out of the gate.
Owner Cole Glendinning pours a glass of beer.Todd Korol/Todd Korol/The Globe and Mail
Interior design-wise, though, Best of Kin feels as though it’s having a bit of an identity crisis. On its narrow south wall, there’s a black and white mural of a cartoon living room. An ode to the brewer’s minimalist can illustrations (which are quite cool and help the beers stand out from the competition on liquor store shelves), it’s a shame this design choice doesn’t extend across the entire room’s colour scheme.
Seating is a hodge-podge of old kitchen tables and mismatched kitchen chairs of all types of colours. Along the back wall is Best of Kin’s main bar and next to it, its kitchen is built into a shipping container.
There’s a battle between monochrome and warm and cozy going on here, which feels like a black and white movie that’s only half come to life. Maybe that’s the point?
Let’s talk beers before we delve deeper and darker into table service and food quality.
As we’re teased with warmer weather, there is nothing wrong with sipping Summer Crush, Best of Kin’s version of a radler with tangerine and blood orange. The Barley Pop is as crushable an ale as they come and the Dad Beer (a lagered ale) is similarly refreshing.
After two visits here, I’d describe the service as fairly indifferent. Not rude, but also not friendly.
This sentiment is perfectly summed up in an interaction when a few dishes came to our table. After noting that we would be sharing everything, the server remarked, “Even the burger? Okay.”
Aside from the burger, which was tasty enough in its two-patty glory with shredded lettuce, white cheddar, 'secret' sauce and house-made pickles on a brioche bun, the food offerings at Best of Kin leave a lot to be desired.Todd Korol/The Globe and Mail
She walked away before we could ask for a proper knife to cut it. Oh well.
Aside from the burger, which was tasty enough in its two-patty glory with shredded lettuce, white cheddar, “secret” sauce and house-made pickles on a brioche bun, the food offerings at Best of Kin leave a lot to be desired.
The mezze platter arrives as a confused smattering of overly smoky lentil hummus, overly garlicky olives, a house-made herbed ricotta (of sorts), house-made pickles and pickled onions, one-inch-thick crostini and a pile of pizza bread.
Then there’s a trio of corn dogs that are fine enough on their own, but an abrasive beer mustard on the side makes things memorable for the wrong reasons. The house-smoked chicken wings are similarly let down by their condiment, a house barbecue sauce that tastes more like a chili-powder-heavy tomato sauce than anything.
We don’t fare much better with “hamburger helper” – a mix of store-bought serpentini noodles in a short rib bolognese topped with a basil pistou and parmesan nestled into a healthy portion of smoked carrot puree. But why?
The double-smoked bacon and kale pizza was nearly inedible thanks to a mealy fresh cheese used as a base.Todd Korol/Todd Korol/The Globe and Mail
Pizza is as dangerous a game as craft brewing in Alberta, with a plethora of top-notch options all around, and the small pizzas here are simply not up to par. The double-smoked bacon and kale pizza was nearly inedible thanks to a mealy fresh cheese used as a base. While chewing, it’s hard not to remind yourself that Acme Pizza Co. is just a few blocks down the road.
Some redemption is found in the brewery’s take on mac ‘n’ cheese. Served piping hot in a cast-iron skillet, Best of Kin opts for the same corkscrew noodles here, but the sauce is creamy, the salty chunks of bacon are plentiful, jalapenos add a nice, subtle heat and the spent grain crumb on top makes for a nice texture.
Not every brewery can serve great food, we know that. So if you’re popping by Best of Kin, stick with a liquid diet and your time here will be enjoyable enough.