These admirable buns have much in common with krantz cakes, babka and cinnamon rolls. That said, while not lean per se, they are leaner than most of those. They are sweet without the toothache, kept keen by the bite of seasonally appropriate marmalade and grounded by a savoury smudge of tahini. Cocoa nibs bring texture to the filling, along with a memory of those sliced chocolate oranges my older brother used to like.

There is a seeming madness in suggesting a recipe that reads as long as this one does, right when we're just finished a season of holidays and all the related production. Fear not. The endeavour is one of relative ease.

And I'll go so far as to make a case for a project like this to carry us into the new year, as the modest moments of industry earn a boon in return. Let's start the calendar with good fortune.

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The dough is best when it gets its start the night before, which means the preparation is spread out with rests in between. The filling is a matter of stirring, and the glaze takes a moment on the stove. The frosting is a bit of prettiness that can be left off if it feels too much.

And a couple notes on that filling. For the sugar, use the darkest you can find. Muscovado, a semi-refined cane sugar, is particularly appreciated here; its bittersweet depth adds dimension to the filling, and its colour brings that much more contrast between the filling and dough. Instead of cocoa nibs, toasted nuts would do nicely.