Recipe: Corn Hushpuppies

These hushpuppies evoke the fairground: the scent of corn dogs and all manner of fried, savoury goodness hawked alongside the midway.

There is a bit of a game in eating them, a juggling trick of holding hot fritter with only fingertips to manage that first, crackling bite of brittle exterior – to catch it at peak crunch against the creamed fluff of a centre. It's a technique that requires pulling the lips away from the teeth, with the reward worth the modest risk.

For those sensible enough to wait for them to cool, the rough rounds are still exceptionally tempting. The crust firms up along with the middle, with the subtle sweetness of the corn kernels coming through. A solitary jalapeño sidles up with the herbs to suggest a sense of green, while cornmeal grants both lightness of crumb and a gratifying grit to the crust.

They are made to partner with drinks, but I also have the idea to float them in a bowl of chowder or chili once the weather turns. Or on a plate of beans and ribs at a barbecue, or with beans, eggs, and grilled tomatoes for breakfast. Think of them as a crustier cornbread, or muffin top, and their many uses are self-evident.

When I make hushpuppies, they're usually eaten almost straight from the fryer, snatched as fast as they're cooked. But if you'd rather serve them en masse, place a rimmed baking sheet lined with paper towels in a low oven, 200°F is good, and transfer the fried, drained hushpuppies as they are cooked.

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