This outstanding dish has Islamic, Burmese and Thai roots. There's no standard recipe and variations range from a curry-like soup with strong cumin and coriander flavours to a version rich with coconut milk and less spice. This version comes from the cooking school at the Four Seasons Hotel in Chiang Mai. First, comes a recipe for homemade curry paste, but don't feel bad if you buy it: Thais also often get theirs from favourite vendor at a market.