First it was restaurants with house-made yogurt, salumi, sourdough breads, and lacto-fermented pickles; then home cooks began aging kimchi and sauerkraut, or keeping cheesecloth-draped jars of kombucha cozy in sunny kitchens, and devotedly nurturing their own starters.
The technique of fermentation began as a way of preserving the harvest bounty to last us through the year. Now that people are eating more in accordance with the seasons, it has seen a resurgence in popularity, going from culinary trend to a household practice.
During fermentation, naturally present microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi and yeast convert sugar and starch into alcohol or acids. The process transforms grape juice into wine, cabbage into kimchi, soybeans into miso and milk into yogurt. Sources far more knowledgeable than I can offer specifics regarding the benefits of consuming fermented foods; but, in the most general of terms, the fermentation process can aid in digestion and increase the bioavailability and absorption of certain nutrients.
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For those who cannot digest lactose, fermented forms are sometimes viable to them. In Tartine All Day, Elisabeth Prueitt notes her consumption of naturally leavened breads despite her gluten intolerance. Unpasteurized fermented foods also contain probiotics, or microflora (bacteria), which are beneficial to the digestive tract, immune system and overall health. Science aside, fermented foods simply taste good. They often boast a funky, soured depth, and are especially complimentary to fats and starches. Consider sauerkraut on a grilled sausage, or how soy sauce on rice offers a savouriness far more nuanced than salt ever could.
With the increased availability of fermented foods, there is the opportunity to incorporate them into our daily meals. Here, I pair a store-bought beet and red cabbage sauerkraut with brackish, lemon-soused vegetables. The combination of sauerkraut and fresh vegetables is twangy, crunchy and bright, and the ideal counterpoint to a delicate brown rice and celeriac cake. Both the celeriac and rice have a natural sweetness, amplified by confident browning. Cooked until chestnut, the celeriac tastes almost like popcorn. A tender pear offers some textural contrast. The plate makes for a quick, filling lunch that happens to be vegan and gluten-free to boot.
For those not looking for a vegan option, add a beaten egg to the celeriac and rice. The resultant cake will be firmer, making for an easier flip and heartier all around.
The recipe as written serves two. I find it easiest to wrangle a pair, as the cakes take about 10 minutes to cook each and demand a large skillet. That said, the recipe can be doubled, keeping the first two cakes warm in a low oven while the others cook.